How To Dry Buds
In order to dry the crop is to hang the buds upside-down from their stem, from a string or wire that has been secured to a wall or any other stationary object.
You can use nails, screws, thumbtacks etc to attach the string or wire to whatever it will be held to. Make sure your setup is secure enough to be able to hold the weight of the weed that is going to be hung drying on it. Nails or screws in wood is typically very sturdy and recommended. Make sure you leave enough room between the plants for air to properly circulate.
It is a good idea to check up on the buds every day to watch for signs of mold and mildew and correct the problem if it happens. After the fan leaves droop down over the flowers and turn crisp or break off easily, you would want to start trimming off the fan leaves only.
The drying weed must have some circulation blowing over it at all times. Proper ventilation is CRUCIAL. A gentle breeze that circulates all over the plants is necessary. A fan or two will circulate the air within the drying room perfectly. Fans aid in drying the plants evenly and reducing the chances of mold forming on your buds. If mold is prone to grow due to your drying environmental conditions, it can ruin all of your crop. Mold looks like white fuzz or white spots and has a distinctly unpleasant odor.
WARNING: NEVER ever smoke moldy buds, as this can make you very very sick and might even kill you!
Optimal Drying Environment
A dark cool drying environment is critical. ANY light that touches your buds will at once begin to degrade it’s THC content.
In order to ensure optimum drying results, you are going to have to keep the temperature and humidity within a certain range for optimal results. Conditions should remain somewhere between the following ideal ranges;
Temperature: between 65-76°F (18.3 to 24.4°C).
Humidity: between 45%-55%.
If the temperatures lower more than 65°F (18.3°C) the drying time will be lengthened. At temperatures higher than 75°F (23.8°C), the heat will cause the other portion of the bud to dry quicker than the inner part and as a result, the taste will suffer.
At a humidity lower than 45% the weed will dry way too fast and the taste will suffer. If the humidity rises higher than 55%, weed will take a long time to dry and will be prone to mold.
To measure these levels, be sure to keep a hygrometer and a thermometer in the drying area very close to the plants. A hygrometer allows you to keep tabs on the relative humidity level in the room and a thermometer will display the temperature. Some hygrometers have built-in thermometers so you can measure both temperature and humidity at the same time. Depending on the time of year and your current location, a heater or an air conditioner might be necessary to adjust the temperature.
To control the humidity levels a dehumidifier can lower the humidity and a humidifier can be used to raise it. There are two types of humidifiers – warm mist and cool mist.
A warm mist humidifier raised the temperature while a cool mist humidifier doesn’t affect the temperature at all. There are also humidifiers that allow you to switch between a warm or cool mist. If you’re going to purchase a humidifier, be sure to take your climate into consideration and then go ahead and buy an appropriate humidifier to suit your individual needs. Warm mist actually heats up the water and releases warm humidity. Cool mist water isn’t cooled, it just means that water is not heated. In most cases a cool mist works best. If you’re not sure and want to be safe then go ahead and grab a humidifier that lets you switch between warm and cool mist.
Typically the ideal time it takes is two weeks to dry the crop between temperatures of 65-75°F (18.3-23.8°C) and relative humidity between 45%- 55%. Never rush the drying of your buds (that is, if you want to make sensational bud!) A bud is completely dry, cured, and ready for consumption when the stem in the middle of the bud snaps (rather than fold) easily with the fingers. The snap is easy to detect with practice. You can test a little bit(about a half a gram or less) in a joint if you want to be absolutely sure it is dry enough. The surface of buds should be dry to the touch.
Note: Good ventilation in the room will allow buds to grow faster, but any air that is directed at buds will cause them too dry out too quickly. Make sure you don’t dry it too much (hard crisp stems will snap way too easily) this can lead to a harsh smoke. In time you will get a feel for the perfect drying methodology, no worries.
WARNING: Light will rapidly decompose THC! So ALWAYS keep harvested weed in darkness as much as possible.
And remember, you can use all sorts of little tricks and methods to increase drying time, but ultimately – the longer and slower your buds dry, the smoother the smoke will be in the end.
The bud will smoke smoother if it takes around a week or more for the moisture to evaporate; quicker drying will harshen the taste and degrade the burning properties. So please, for the sake of your smoke (and your buds!) take your sweet time. It will pay off in the end, I promise.
Peeling Stems For a Faster Dry
If you MUST dry your buds faster then peeling stems is a much quicker way to dry the product. The first day of drying you would normally cut all fan leaves off and score the main stem with a sharp knife. Peeling the stem exposes the inside of the stem to air, cutting drying time by up to ~33%. You can do this scoring ritual every day for 5 days until all is dry.